Hello, Stopgamers! I decided to puff the antiquity and roll out a sheet of text. This amateurish opus is dedicated Homemade galvanic coping, with detailed instructions what, and how to do. If desired, any of you can repeat these actions, but remember the safety precautions! Electric shock is possible and chemical burns! (Subject to TB, the risk is minimal, but if that, you work at your own peril and risk, I do not bear any responsibility for your idiocy, only for my. If you are not 18 years old, then Do not do it it is yourself, attract parents, brothers, sisters or someone else adult.
So, let’s get down, but for a start, a little backstory (read is not necessary):
Despite the fact that I was a certified chemist, I got carried away with a galvanic only 4 months ago, having studied a lot of lessons from various Zhzhniki, masters-jewelers, YouTuber-firiks, and a couple of books for radio amateurs and galvanici actually. I am far from the Galvanniki God, not the father-Guru, Shiph-Mentor and the last hope of the electrochemistry of the Russian state, but nevertheless, I managed to master the stable process of coping the dielectrics, in particular plastic. Considering that the 3D-pushing home has now become quite affordable (if anyone wants to buy a 3D printer or assemble it yourself, if not, you can contact the offices that will be highlighted with you anything), coping of plastic allows you to create interesting and unusual handmade products, decorations, figures, etc.D … And without thinking for a short time, I decided to make Joseph’s core model from the game "Machine".
First of all, it was necessary to get a model. I do not know how to simulate, so I turned to the famous www site.Thingiverse.com, which stores a large number of 3D models. I was lucky, Joseph is there.
However, the model was extremely unstable. I had to simulate the pedestal inhuman efforts, it turned out quite authentic.
The next step was the 3D model printout. This is not so simple, since the 3D printing house consists of 90% of the printer setting and 10% of the press itself. I have a cheap Chinese 3D printer, the print quality is not the best, like the printer itself. 2 hours he grunted heartily until he squeezed Joseph from the plastic.
The head had many defects, I had to process for two hours a file.
Some roughnesses were left for authenticity (in fact from laziness), he is an old worn robot! After he wiped the solvent and part -time glue for plastic – dichloroethane to give a large smoothness of the surface. The liquid itself is very poisonous, it is better to use Dichlormethan, It is not only not toxic, but also smells nice (I hope my inner toxicomaniac did not sleep). Dichlorestan can be bought in small quantities in stores of radio electronics. Dichlormethan, if you are not from Muscovy or Leningrad, you will have to write out on the Internet, usually in a large amount of 1-5 liters, and this is quite a lot, given the small consumption of these solvents (not more than 5 ml per one product). In any case, you need to work with these substances in a well -ventilated room.
This is what Joseph looked before processing:
And this became after:
The next step is to prepare for the galvanic ore of Joseph.
A little theory (who can not read to the light bulb, here is 90% of Wikipedia, retold in completely simple words):
Application of galvanic coatings occurs due to electrolysis. Electrolysis is a phenomenon that proceeds under the influence of electric current in solutions of salts (electrolytes) between the cathode (negatively charged electrode) and the anode (positively charged electrode). Electric current restores metals from salts that settled cathode.
The mass of the metal released on the electrode is proportional to the current of salts missed through the solution (electrolyte). This is called the law of Faraday, expressed by the formula:
If in simple words, the more the current gave and/or the more time it spent on the process, the more metal will settle on the electrode.
The final quality of the galvanic coating (besieged metal from electrolyte on the cathode) depends:
1) from the area of electrodes: the area of the anodes should not be more than 2 times than the cathode area. Otherwise, a loose layer of copper will turn out.
2) from the composition of the electrolyte: depending on the presence of certain additives, the galvanic coating can be matte, shiny, have different shades. For example, brilliance add shine with galvanic coatings.
3) from current and voltage strength. If you immediately give a large current, then a loose precipitate is formed on the cathode, which easily shakes off the electrode. Therefore, the current must be increased gradually, to a certain interval. If you serve too much current, an electric breakdown of electrodes is possible. If your power source does not have protection, it can burn.
It follows from the theory that Joseph https://nongamstopsites.uk/review/spinscastle/ should act as a cathode (negative electrode). We printed Joseph from plasticity, which does not conduct electrical current. So, we must apply an electrical wire coating to the surface of the model. In the literature on the galvanic, it is recommended to use salts of palladium, silver. To the usual mortal to get the necessary reagents for this is very difficult and expensive. We will use the alternative – graphite aerosol. Graphite conducts a good electric current, and this aerosol has good adhesion (that is, it sticks well) to various materials.
For the Urals graphite aerosol is not easy to get. According to new laws, all combustible substances in Russia are transported by ground transport. I had to wait 2 months until the aerosol was delivered. It costs 1200-1800 rubles per 200 ml. The consumption is relatively not large, half of the bottle is enough for 5-6 full figures the size of Joseph. If you galvanize leaves, shells and any other small things, then one aerosol will be enough for 50-70 products.
Before painting graphite, the model must be degreased. Introduce painting in a ventilated room, wearing a muzzle (respirator, gauze, gas mask, spacesuit). For better conductivity, I recommend applying at least 2 layers of graphite. After you need to wrap a small section of Joseph with a copper wire.
Organization of galvanic bath. First of all, we need a capacity of dielectric (glass, plastic, ceramics). I bought ordinary food containers. Anodes made from a copper sheet. Before use, the sheets must be cleaned of oxide film, for example, a skin. After degrease and lower it into the bathroom. The electrode recorded with a thick copper wire. Remember about safety precautions.
The next step is the preparation of the electrolyte itself. There are a lot of different coping recipes. I chose the cheapest as possible, with affordable reagents.
And so the composition of 1 liter of distilled water:
200 g of copper sulfate;
2. 140 ml of electrolyte sulfate.
Optionally, if you want to get a mirror shine, you need to add:
0.01 to 0.08 g of thiomo -shaped;
2. 0.03 to 0.08 g of unitiol;
3. 0.05 g of salt.
Gelatin 2-4 granules;
2. Ethyl alcohol 1.5 ml (3.75 ml of vodka).
Where to buy all this?
Ethyl alcohol can be obtained through familiar doctors, chemists, resting from work? If there is no way to get it, ordinary vodka will go.
Tiomochevina costs 200 rubles. for kg in online stores. An individual entrepreneur does not need to be, as well as have any purchase permits.
Salt can be bought at any supermarket. You need to buy not iodized! Preferably small.
Copper coupor in household or garden stores (from 20 to 50 p. For 100 g.).
Unitiol in pharmacies, costs about 500 rubles. This is an antidote with arsenic poisoning.
Sulfate electrolyte in car shops, though it happens not in all. Distilized water of rubles for 20 per liter is also sold there. You can use tap water, however, impurities can be unpredictable to affect the quality of the galvanic coating.
The mixing process is carried out in a gauze bandage and protective gloves. Measure the reagents using measuring flasks or jewelry scales (cost 200-500 r.). Copper sulfate is sold in bags of 50 and 100 grams. You can just pour them and make a translation into other reagents through proportions.
Salt rash a little, stirring with a plastic spoon. Sulfate electrolyte slowly into the water, but not vice versa! When sulfuric acid reacts with water, there is a strong heating of the solution. If you put water into acid, it can boil and spray in your face. If the solution is very warm up, stop pouring the acid until the solution cools down.
Carry out all the processes in a well -ventilated room. If you shed acid, it can be extinguished with ordinary soda. The coping electrolyte after use should also be packed with soda, only then drain into the sewer.
Power supply. There are videos on YouTube where they tell how to make a power source from a regular telephone charger. A power source can also be bought in radio -dot stores, ordering on Aliexpress, buy from hand to Avito or other services. I have an old, Soviet, laboratory. Perfectly stabilizes voltage or current, depending on the mode of operation. I also do not forget aboutSafety precautions!
Mopping. We immerse the model into the electrolyte, it can surfacing with low density. It is important to fix it so that it does not move, and even more so does not touch the copper plates. Then we connect the “minus” of the power source to the model wire, “plus” on copper plates. It is recommended to use two copper plates on both sides of the model. Then uniform core will occur on both sides.
During the coping process, it is recommended to maintain a certain current density depending on the surface area of the galvanized product. For a concrete coping of Joseph no more than 0.35 and at 2.5 V.
First we make a small current: 0.1 A at 0.5-0.8 V. After 15-30 minutes, we build up to 0.2 A and 1.2-1.5 V. An hour later up to 0.3 A and 1.5-1.9 V. When another hour passes, lift to a maximum value of 0.35 A and 2.5 V.
Current and voltage can be measured and controlled with special voltammeters or a conventional multimeter. I use 2 such. The main thing is to connect them correctly.
Further, the process goes by itself. You must understand that hydrogen is released during electrolysis. The likelihood that the struggle is small, but it is better to carry out the process in a ventilated room or a fingering cabinet. With full compliance with safety and under the supervision of your own or adults, if you are not 18. It is not recommended to leave the bath unattended. Using Arduino, you can assemble an automatic control and emergency shutdown module, the necessary instructions are on the Internet. Will cost from 600 rubles.
The coping process is carried out to the desired coating thickness. This is what the platform looks like after 6 hours of coping:
Joseph I Mednil 12 hours. After disconnected a power source, pulled out a model and washed in distilled water with soda. Soda is needed for neutralization Sulfuric acid residues.
20 hours of coping was spent in total.
Unfortunately, I did not use soda, as a result, Joseph "swelled" Aki Bender.
At first I thought that cats were the reason for this effect. The fact is that Joseph was temporarily in a niche where a cat toilet is located. And I have three cats, and they all drink and eat perfectly. With the corresponding result. But after it turned out that the point was not in feline mercaptans and hydrogen sulfide, but in sulfuric acid, which remained at the pores of plastic. She gradually went out and oxidized copper.
I corrected this defect using a solution of soda and vinegar. Mixed approximately 1 to 1. Strongly stinks with vinegar, but what to do. With the help of a toothbrush and napkin, the "bristle" erased.
Polishing. Polished the felt nozzle to Dremel. Unfortunately, there was no good copper shine. I did not have electrolytes for a mirror shine then. By the way, it is best to use them for electrochemical polishing of already core products, since this surface has the worst strength characteristics.
For reference. Mirror shine occurs due to inhibiting the rate of precipitation of copper on the anode. Small copper crystals are formed, which give the material to the material.
Patination. So, the final stage has come, we need to aging Joseph! We will patronize with ammonia and sulfur. I bought ammonia in a pharmacy, for 30 ml for 50, sulfur in a pet store (fodder sulfur) – 2 g for 40 rubles. Sulfuric checkers are sold in construction and garden stores 300 grams for 50 rubles and a half -liter of ammonia for about the same.
After that the composition is prepared: 10 ml of 1-3 grams of sulfur. This is poured into the jar. The model is suspended in the jar, and covered with a package on top. The pairs of hydrogen sulfide and ammonia begin to react with a copper surface, as a result it is darker, gray, blue and that only does not happen to it. Color depends on the time of holding the model in pairs. If the process is carried out a few dozen, the surface will become grayish, if a couple of minutes – blue.
After patining, Joseph went through another polishing procedure, and then was covered with transparent varnish to protect against further surface oxidation.
It turned out such a robot. Its cost amounted to 150 rubles (not taking into account human labor). As you like?
All procedures are not recommended for children under the age of 18 without the presence of adults. Be sure to observe safety precautions when working with substances and electric current. And love science and manuls. Science and Manules are cool.